When asking how to get more blooms and flowers from your landscape plants and trees, there is one simple tip that we will often repeat when giving people the shortest, best answer we can to the secrets of having a good, strong, long lasting landscape. 

As you can see through this series of sections on the question of how to get more blooms and flowers, high bloom output is directly related to the overall health of the landscape in general. There is no separation. 

If the landscape plant or tree, root systems or the soil is in poor or challenging conditions, the output of the blooms and flowers will also struggle. As we are pointing out, there are a multitude of different factors that can contribute to either greater bloom and flower outputs, or the same factors that can detract from that health of the plant or tree, and the health of your landscape at your property overall. 

As people may view this in different local and more distant areas, first, we hope that this provides a benefit to our own customers and they find this helpful. Beyond that, we hope that anyone with a yard or property they are trying to enjoy more; we hope the information here may provide help to you possibly as well. That would make this an effort well spent in that thought alone. 

So, to help diagnose your particular situation, with your particular plant or tree, whatever it may be, knowing that the shortest, most memorable answer possible is always sought after, and only is worth remembering if it is effective – here it is : 

Our shortest answer possible to having your own healthy, hardy, long lasting landscape (including plants, trees, your lawn) is : 

The deeper the roots, 

the stronger your landscape. 

Root health is a key to the strength, the health and the longevity of all of your landscape and that includes the plants, trees, palms, as well as the lawn and any smaller annual plantings. Even plants or flowers in containers, which decorative containerized plants or trees are another topic of maintenance of their own; same principles. 

As one of the largest factors to having any landscape healthy begins with the roots, in turn a healthy landscape will produce more blooms and flowers.  This next segment begins with a quick look at what exactly does a normal and healthy root system look like for different plants, trees and palm trees. Without knowing what is normal, how can one really know what we’re talking about for healthy, depth and roots ? 

This section, hopes to shed light on the normal depths of plant, palm and tree roots systems generally, but we fully realize most people won’t dig up something and find out if it the roots are doing well or are deep enough. To account for that reality, we’ll get more into being able to tell hopefully with signs and practices of watering and upkeep, if the roots might be the problem in your property possibly. If the roots are the problem, how they could be holding back from achieving a healthier landscape, and more blooms on those blooming plants and trees. 

Depths of Plant, Palm & Tree Roots Typically 

Just as plants and trees are different in their growth above the surface with what shapes and sizes they grow into, the same can be said for root systems below grade. Some will have deeper or thicker roots, while some others may be thinner and more shallow. Some roots spreading a bit wider, while others maybe being more dense and shallow closer to the plant or tree itself.

Short insight point : all roots are not the same size and shape. That is true amongst plant’s roots differing from other plant’s roots, the same as it is for tree’s roots from other tree’s roots. 

 Plants will generally have similar root growth below the soil, with plants that are approximately 1 to 2 foot tall, having roots that may go to that same depth or greater below the grade. The deeper roots, of any plant or tree typically will become thinner, as they are at the furthermost distance from the plant or tree, probing through the soils, working their way deeper and further. 

Graph Diagram Reference here is from  Research Gate, Figure 4 – uploaded by David Tsao Content may be subject to copyright.

Information on Citation for Reference : https://www.researchgate.net/publication/10823907_Overview_of_phytotechnologies_Adv_Biochem_Eng_Biotechnol/citation/download

Tree Root systems, will vary in size and strength more noticeably than plants or palms. There are different categories of trees, which include those which bloom and flower. Blooming or flowering trees can range from the smaller ornamental sizes that might mature and be kept easily between 8 to 15 feet tall it might be thought, mid range trees that might mature between 20 to 30 foot or so.  

For larger canopy flowering trees that might climb well upwards for 4o to 70 feet, depending on what desired height they are kept and the species of flowering tree in our south florida area in question. 

The Royal Poinciana Tree with a brilliant Red, Orange bloom during the summer time might be viewed as one of our areas largest blooming trees, while the Hibiscus tree might be viewed as one of our areas smallest. Both are hardy and commonly used in our area. 

For depth of tree roots, there’s the range of those hard wood trees which grow the widest root systems close to the surface and deeper which would include the Ficus, Oak trees, Mahogany, Black Olive or Shady Lady, Gumbo Limbo or Royal Poinciana for some quick examples in our South Florida area. While the canopies of the Laurel Oaks might naturally go 40 to 60 feet wide, the roots could expected to extend the same distance, possibly slightly more. 

An important point of consideration, even though the roots may extend that far, doesn’t mean that entire range of surface roots are strong enough to cause surface damage. 

For a memorable marker and visual reminder, following those rare, unfortunate and destructive hurricane moments, we might witness upturned mature trees in an area. With a mature Oak or another  species of similar 60 foot height and width, overturned, and exposing the concentrated root systems that might pop up and break sections of concrete on a city sidewalk. The roots in this rare event can show generations old Laurel or Live Oaks with a base of most tightly concentrated roots ranging from 10 foot to 15 foot wide, maybe 6 to 10 depth; for trees that might be 60 to 80 foot tall for some instances, and of a similar age of 40 years possibly or much greater. While the roots extend much further and can go under streets and sidewalks in a city area, that tighter grouping of concentrated, tightly woven and grown roots are much more compact. 

Quick word on planting and maintenance cautions on tree root systems potential damage to a home or building : 

For a word on possible damage to walkways and foundations of homes or buildings we’ll make a quick note that it is not good to plant any hardwood tree close to the foundation of a home or building. Homes, more so as they typically will have less shallow foundations quite often that a building, especially one that is multiple levels or stories. 

How close or how far should a tree be planted from the foundation of a home, opinions will vary and much of this will depend on the tree being planted. Suggest not planting a large tree any closer than 10 to 15 feet from the foundation if possible. 

Not all properties and planting requirements are the same for all neighborhoods. Palms do not have root systems as spreading as hard wood trees as we’ll cover quickly. If you have concerns about roots and you have an option of a tree verses a palm, a palm presents a less threatening root system on average. Still don’t plant the palm so close for the roots to touch the foundation. 

Graph Tree Root System Diagram Referral Credit to : https://fufc.org/product/right-tree-right-place-planting-guide-and-poster/

A lot of times homes may be required to plant a tree within a close proximity to the foundation, less than 10 feet or so, according to the construction guidelines determined and established for a certificate of occupancy (C.O.) to be provided and satisfied prior to the formal completion of construction. 

Many larger trees canopies can go 25, 35 foot wide or more and there will be a challenge there for the roots as well that may go under the structure. A point of help if dealing with one of these larger trees and you are not able to remove it, keep the canopies trimmed tightly, this will help reduce the nutrient intake for the tree. The lower the nutrient intake, the less the roots need to grow wider and deeper. 

For some of the most invasive and far reaching root systems in our south florida area, the Ficus tree is one of caution. Unobstructed we’ve seen these surface roots maintain a thickness at 2 inches or so, within a foot below surface, at 60 to 70 feet away from the planted tree. Also in the hedge form, the Ficus hedge can also be damaging to foundations of homes if planted to close to a foundation that might be weak or flawed.

Palm Tree Roots are more dense and compact than regular tree root systems. 

Palm trees can be planted closer to a home or building without presenting the same threat of far reaching strong root systems that penetrating hard wood tree roots pose.  

Palm tree roots are more compact. Think of a softball that grows underground as a compact, interwoven series of thread like fibers which the roots are. Incredibly strong in their ability to grab and hold themselves into the ground with a small requirement of root space compared to larger trees. Not all roots for palms are the same, but they generally follow this nature of being compact and strong. Some roots are stronger and tougher than others. The way that tall palms can handle strong storm winds when considering the small compared area of the roots might be thought of as remarkable. Some palm roots are comprised of stronger ‘fiber systems’ of roots it may be thought, which can be evidenced by any challenged to dig out different species out by hand as we do from time to time.

Not talking about how far the width of a larger trees roots might extend, bu asking what’s the concentrated central root growth width of a mature 40 or 50 foot tree? Depending on the tree it might average 6 to 10 foot wide. It can be dug out and cut from a nursery field to have a smaller root ball that will then require bracing. If planting by a pool, and wishing for a palm that matures over 30 or 40 feet, allow 10 of root space if you can, will make for an easier time of it. If you have 6 foot of a planting space in a pool deck and you plant a larger growing tree, over time you may find the pavers popping up and either making the planting space larger, or cutting the roots back and re-setting the pavers every so often – will be the ongoing maintenance.

Palm Tree Diagram Referenced from Pinterest Pin @ : 

If looking for further details or more specific information on what trees might be best to plant for your project based on size and root challenges, can always check with the Landscape Architectural standards for construction planting in your area, a local university guide from an extension service or possibly even with the department of forestry in your area it might be thought. 

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How to get the roots to grow deep and strong ? 

What’s a quick way for me to know if I have problems with over watering ? For many, it could be looking in your landscape bed areas, along the sides of the house and seeing if you have any green moss or tint growing on the ground. 

Do you see any mold on the walls of your house, struggling plants where the ground is perennially damp? Suggest to make sure to check by the air conditioner pad (a.c. pads have an a.c. pipe outlet that will drip more continually, good place to check.) 

To note, you may have an issue with drainage in one area of the property, and not in any others. Sometimes, it could be the entire property that is challenged, but, that is not always the case. There are drainage systems that can be designs and installed, techniques that can help with preparing the beds, allowing for run off more, elevating the beds where able without trapping water against a home, that can be done if there are drainage problems. Some unfortunately have experienced storm water challenges that can threaten a home, even entering. We have seen all these situations. 

For the less drastic, where water pools, or there is mold or mildew growth on the ground, or possibly it is recognized that the sprinklers are simply on what seems like constantly, these are the grounds that more simple adjustments can be made to the irrigation system for starters is the hope. 

This Xeriscaing of the landscape, going for strong, deep root system is what we suggest should be the most singular starting maintenance and watering strategy goal of every single project we perform for a new Landscape Installation. We recommend this strategy for everyone, regardless of the property they have, the type of landscape materials, no matter where one lives, anywhere. 

Doesn’t matter what style of landscape we may have performed, tropical, formal, contemporary, jungly, Mediterranean, Spanish, English Garden,  Asian styled, no matter the style, no matter the plant or tree material chosen and installed, the goal is ultimately consistent in the mind of attaining “proper landscape care”. 

Any formula that is crafted to provide “proper landscape care” after a new landscape is installed should be geared towards establishing stronger, deeper roots throughout that property.

The transition from newly installed to becoming established, we provide care notes and recommendations on watering, and these may need to be tweaked at times depending on the materials installed, the soil density or porousness of the property, the weather and seasonal rainfall. After going through this transition from new to established, the first few months being the most important, beyond that, for some items may take six months for some plants and trees to be acclimated to their new home, for some larger trees, could be a year before the ability to remove bracing on some trees and the roots strong enough to hold up some trees on their own. 

To note, the biggest mistake is that people will either for the longer term, after a landscape should be established is : 

1) Under watering, not providing enough water at the time a landscape is first installed can threaten a new landscape; although, over watering some properties, especially those with drainage problems can kill a landscape or a new lawn. A healthy balance is needed and when in doubt, ask for written instructions as sometimes it can be easy to misinterpret instructions unfortunately. 

For Landscape Care Notes we provide all our customers and any with interest, we have watering guidelines available on our website @ https://universallandscapefl.com/care-notes-for-newly-installed-landscapes-a-few-main-important-points-to-know/

2) 2nd biggest mistake we come across is the long term affect of over watering. People will make the adjustments up front to the higher watering need that occurs immediately following the installation of the landscape and then through the first three (3) months, but then forget to reduce the watering. 

By forgetting to reduce the watering long term, you are actually hurting and weakening the landscape. 

Stating that developing deeper roots as a “Watering Strategy” goal as deeper or more shallow roots are a direct result of the type of watering you do most often. 

In some circumstances, as the eastern and many central cities in our Palm Beach County, Florida, iit may be a very dry, porous or sandy soil that makes up a property. Other instances, as many developments in the Western parts of our county, many are challenged with dense, poor draining, marl or clay compositions in the ground which can create significant drainage problems and with it, greater difficulty for plants and trees to establish, healthy, deeper root systems. 

So, how does one get deeper root systems for their plants and trees ? 

Less watering by irrigation systems typically over the longer period. Training the landscape plants and trees to rely more on mother nature and our areas natural rainfall supply then becoming so completely dependent upon frequent irrigation from our sprinkler systems. 

Why is that important? 

The deeper the root systems in the ground, the better each plant and tree has the ability to access water in the ground on its own, as it needs and requires that water. The deeper the roots, it is similar to tapping into a deeper, increased source of water that can sustain the plant or tree. 

The shorter the roots, the less water they can take in on their own. For example, a plant with root systems that are 1 foot deep, have less of an ability to access water as a plant that has root systems that are 4 or 5 feet deep. 

The same with trees. 

The plant that has root systems that are 4 or 5 feet deep has a network of plant roots that can acquire not only a greater volume of water for that plant that is needed, but also, has a greater nutrient retrieval capacity as well. 

Short, shallow roots do not have the same ability to draw on the same volumes of water nor nutrition that can help sustain the plant or tree. Thus, shallow rooted plants and trees are weaker, than deeper rooted plants and trees. 

Also, the strength of a plant or tree that has deeper roots can handle an unusually strong breeze or wind much better than the plant that is not rooted well, or that is shallow rooted. 

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So how do I train my landscape to be deeper rooted? 

Imagine for a moment that you are watering every single day with your irrigation system for anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour each day. Long term, we’d say twice a week most as a goal if you can, for between 15 to 30 minutes per zone. 

Not all properties soils are the same and the demands can vary with weather and seasonal rainfall as well so adjustments can will need to be made, but for guidance, if your a customer of ours, we’d be glad to re-visit this with you if needed, for any others, check with a trusted source you might know or finding one might prove of increasing value. 

Now, if you’re watering every day with your irrigation system, doesn’t matter what season it is, doesn’t matter if its raining or not, all things being equal and the property not having a drainage problem, the roots and plants are living things, so first priority is survival. 

After they are comfortably surviving, the next thing that happens is that you are training and teaching the roots they don’t have to work to get water. While it is the nature of the roots of plants and trees to go deep, because you are providing them water that they would instinctively search for and acquire on their own, you are creating a situation where to survive in the conditions on your property with frequent watering, they need only be shallow to drink and absorb water to survive. Thus, the roots will adapt and mainly remain near the surface as that is where they need only to be to drink and absorb water mainly. 

This is talking of the long term watering strategy, after the landscape has been established typically through the first 3 months to 6 months, a year for larger trees sometimes… 

The result of frequent, heavy watering long term on your landscape: 

Shallow roots in areas of frequent watering. Shallow root systems equals weaker landscapes. Weaker landscapes typically will under produce to their ability to be full and hardy. Shallow roots are not as capable quite often to repel insects and disease it may be thought. Bigger canopies of flowers should be expected from plants and trees that are stronger than weaker. 

Now, if you water less frequently, the roots have to fend for themselves to survive, much as plants and trees are designed by nature. It is good to assist as needed, but one of the more common mistakes we see with clients of our own for example, long term, many with landscapes that may be underperforming, many are over watering.

In fairness, many Hoa’s (Home Owner Associations) control a growing number of neighborhoods. They can be tone deaf unfortunately and very slow to listen to this common problem of over watering. 

A quick day trip or conversation with some of our local South Florida Water Management managers could provide some quick insights in the many helpful, healthy, as well as cost saving and water saving efforts that a Xeriscape watering strategy will produce. 

And that is what we are stressing here, a Xeriscaping watering strategy always. Our definition is using as little water by irrigation and sprinkler systems as possible to help sustain a healthy, beautiful landscape. 

Many think an irrigation system is the needed and primary support to having a strong, beautiful landscape. We hope it might be seen that the opposite is true. 

As with the shallow roots from frequent use of the irrigation system, when the root systems of the landscape are sought to grow deeper, to their natural capability and depths, the plants and trees become more and more self reliant, self serving and strong, the less they require the assistance of an “artificial” to nature, irrigation system. 

No doubt, our landscapes are more beautiful and able to be kept more beautiful because of irrigation systems, that should be without question. The problem that weakens a landscape is when plants and trees are over dependent upon the irrigation systems. 

A Challenge in Balancing a Xeriscaping Watering Strateging for Deeper Roots, verses lawns which need more shallow root systems.  

A quick word on different needs of the lawn and annual flowers verses the greater landscape make up of trees and shrubs. 

If you have annual flowers which are the lowest plants, hopefully also the most colorful in the property, typically growing about 1 foot or so, these plants have the most shallow root systems in your property most likely. They may last a few months and then die off and need replacing or they may last a year for some varieties sometimes. 

The lawn is also another item with root systems much more shallow than the regular landscape of your trees and shrubs, and perennial plants and bushes. Where the root systems of small plants that are 1 to 2 foot high and may have root systems that go deeper than that, the concentration of a Floratam lawn for example, one of the most common lawns in the State of Florida, may see the most roots a few inches below the grade level. Roots can go deeper but the majority of the dense thickness of the Floratam roots might be most visibly a few inches deep. 

The shallow roots of a lawn and small, seasonal annual flowers present a challenge for training the bulk of the plants and trees for the longer term to be deeper. 

There is a balance that needs to be maintained between those materials, like the lawn that have a more shallow root system and the landscape which can grow much deeper. Unfortunately there is no one, quick answer on this one as soils can be on one extreme, dense and having bad drainage challenges and the other end of the spectrum, a property can have sandy soil that requires more water at times than average. 

Seasonal drought or heavy rainfall periods also can affect the amount of water needed at any given time and should be adjusted for. 

All things being normal conditions of rainfall and weather and soil conditions, an established  Floratam lawn for example is suggested to receive 10 to 15 minutes of watering from a sprinkler system at a time. Now, the frequency can vary greatly between that sandy soil property and the one with the heavy clay and marl make up that can be a muddy mess and presents drainage issues. 

For a normal yard that drains properly and no issues, lets say if you can get your lawn to look good without any irrigation usage during the average week, that would be the best scenario. 

Your lawn will be more thirsty than your plants. Your plants will be more thirsty than the trees. This is talking the longer term after the landscape has been established. Now if your lawn needs more water and you’re testing to find out what’s the right approach, think conservation, think minimally as the less you need to help, the more the roots are working to become self reliant and self serving without your help.

Think of that time where we might not be getting much rain and we’re going a season or longer with lower rainfall totals, much lower than average. Yards and properties are browning and becoming more common. There might even be a time of watering restrictions. 

During those times of restrictions, maybe people are being allowed to water once a week, thankfully we haven’t seen this circumstance in a long time, but while many yards are browning, a few properties here and there are still green and looking healthy and good. 

Why do some properties maintain a healthy green look in their lawns while others are drying and dying out ? Yes, its the deeper root systems. 

It actually costs them less electricity on their electricity bills as they are not running their irrigation systems as long. 

Also, for those on city water, they have significantly lower city water bills as they, again, are not running their irrigation as long. 

Now, when watering, go heavier if you need to. If you’re lawn and landscape needs a good watering, suggestion, water for 30 or 45 minutes once a week per zone, rather than multiple times a week at 10 or 15 minutes. 

If you have annual flowers, you will probably need to water more frequently,  maybe 3 times a week, maybe more, but do 1 heavier watering of the 30 to 45 minutes for the lawn if needed and not that same amount of time for the others. See if 5 minutes or 10 minutes might satisfy the needs of your annual flowers and keep them blooming. 

Again, the more you water, the more you’re making the landscape dependent upon you to continue to do so. 

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Weaning the landscape, making the Adjustments needed to your watering schedule 

Now, if you’re going to change the water settings and go to strengthen and deeper the root systems for your property, its going to be a weaning process. Expect stress and strain to appear. Some properties might show it more than others, some might lose some weak plants or trees that are hanging on. 

You don’t have to go from every single day to once a week watering at once, and its really not suggested. 

If you’re at daily, go to twice a week if you can. Keep an eye on the landscape the first few weeks as the changes will begin to take affect. What to look at ? If you pay close attention to the leaves of the plants and trees, you may see wilting in some of them. 

The first to show any wilting or flopping of leaves, those are your most temperamental markers in the property to keep an eye on. A number of other plants or trees, you might not notice any changes at all in the way they look to you, keep looking at those during the following weeks, but also paying attention to the plants that are showing you the leaves curling possibly, or wilting and drooping. 

This is actually encouraging if you’ve been watering everyday or too heavily, or too much water, period. This means the roots are stressing and they are going through a phase to adapt and adjust to the pressure. This is the only situation to help get them away from the surface, to go below the ground. 

Imagine the root systems the weak, surface roots this way:

Imagine your roots systems laying by the side of the swimming pool and your bringing them fresh drinks all the time. They’re not going to want to move or work. You’re making them comfortable, so those roots are going to stay near the surface, they’re not going to work to get their own drinks.

Not, without the pampering, without the over abundance of irrigation watering that is beyond necessary (again, per the conditions of the soils per the different properties), the roots are going to do as they are naturally programmed to do, and they are going to go deeper into the soil and earth, they are going to create a larger network of roots, deeper, to help protect and sustain their healthy existense. 

To note : Difficult soils can make this situation of watering too frequently not only worse, but many landscapes will struggle continually and many will not be able to survive in some properties with bad soil and drainage conditions. 

This challenge with soils make up we’ll get into in another section. 

We hope that any going for a stronger landscape, hoping to get the most out of their property, any wishing for more blooms might find this information helpful and hopefully see results from any who might put some of this into application on reducing watering as needed.